Just recently I had been contacted by a representative from the EcoZoom company about doing a review of their version of the rocket stove: the “Zoom Versa”. After some thorough testing, I found it to be an top-rate rocket stove with an excellent design. Here’s what I think:

First Impressions

My first impression of the stove — for the most part — was very positive. It comes wrapped in professional-looking packaging that comes shipped in a well protected box. I did notice when initially checking things over that there were a few screws (mainly the doors and one of the door handles) that required some tightening up. But beyond that, it’s appears to be a solidly built stove that will last a long time.

When you first look at the EcoZoom stove, you’ll probably notice how similar in design it is with the Stovetec version of the rocket stove. That is probably because it likely made from the same manufacturer. Despite the similarities, there are a number of differences when compared to the Stovetec version of the rocket stove I have which I feel make this EcoZoom rocket stove a superior product.

*Note: Stovetec now appears to make the “Deluxe Wood or Charcoal Metal Lined 2 Door Stove” which for all extents and purposes appears to be the same as the “Zoom Versa” stove. However, since I cannot comment specifically on that stove I will be comparing the Zoom Versa with the Stovetec Wood and Charcoal model I have.

Features of the EcoZoom Versa Rocket Stove

6-Pronged Cast Iron Burner Top

One of the things I didn’t like about the Stovetec stove was it’s 3 pronged pot-support design. With smaller pots, I had to have the botttom of the pot positioned perfectly on the pot supports or else it would kip over. With Ecozoom’s design of six pot-supports, the smaller pots stay on without issue. This design also allows one to easily use a wok or other round bottom pot.

Charcoal and Wood Doors

This is one of the main improvements I feel the Ecozoom stove has made compared to the Stovetec version I have. The doors are a much better designed. The Stovetec doors, being made of thin metal, had no hinges and required that you slide them on and off. To me they always felt a bit flimsy and I thought that after repeated use that the door channels would eventually would wear down and become less effective over time or worse, break.

The EcoZoom Versa doors are solidly made with a reinforced metal frame. The hinged design of the doors allows for easy opening and closing (which was a bit of a pain with the Stovetec stove I have) to change up fuels or to regulate airflow.

Metal-Lined Combustion Chamber

Another great improvement the EcoZoom Versa has made over my original rocket stove is including a metal-lined combustion chamber. Both rocket stoves feature an insulative ceramic chamber that allows these stoves to be so efficient however, since the ceramic chamber is quite brittle it can easily succumb to wear with repeated insertion of wood (which will scrape off the sides and back of the chamber over time). The EcoZoom Versa’s metal-lined chamber will contribute to a longer-lasting stove.

They also include an additional grate (replaceable) to help protect the built-in grate when cooking with charcoal:

Using the EcoZoom Stove

Firing up the EcoZoom rocket stove is done in the same way I demonstrated in my video review of the Stovetec stove. In case you missed it I’ll lay it out here:

Preparation

Before I can fire up the stove I’ll typically gather the following:

• Several two-thumb thickness sticks (these can be whole sticks or sticks split with an axe or knife like in the picture below)
• A few pencil to pinky thickness sticks
• Some matches and
• Some form of tinder (either dry grass, pine needles, or in this picture a cotton ball mixed with some Vaseline)

Firing Up the Stove

Firing up the stove is a fairly easy process:

	Step 1: Fill burn chamber with small sticks.
	Step 2: Light the tinder and place in lower compartment.
	Step 3: Place wood rack in front of stove.
	Step 4: Insert three to four of the larger sticks in the upper compartment.
	Step 5: Cook food.

Final Thoughts

As mentioned in the article, the EcoZoom Versa stove is very much like the current Stovetec wood-charcoal stove that I own. And while the Stovetec stove is an excellent product, I was very impressed with the EcoZoom stove finding it to be superior in design and manufacture.

Having a means of cooking off-grid is of utmost importance when times get tough and it doesn’t get much more efficient or better than a rocket stove. This is definitely on my list of recommended products.

EcoZoom Offer

EcoZoom is offering a $5.00 discount on all stoves to my readers.

To access this discount, click on the following link: EcoZoom Stoves and enter tiej872011 as the coupon code when checking out (I do receive a small commission for this).

They are made of a special fire-proof, cement based composite fabric (Concrete Cloth) bonded to the outer surface of a plastic inner which forms a Nissen-Hut shaped structure once inflated. Designed to be covered with sand or earth, the shelters provide protection against small-arms fire and shell fragments as well as superior insulation against cold and heat.

They can also be fitted with a combined forced air/inflation unit and decontamination module to provide full spectrum CBRN (Chemical, Biological, Radiological and Nuclear) protection.

I could see these as a great addition to a retreat or bug-out type location. Check out the following video for a demonstration (email subscribers please visit site for video):

Since I have quite a bit of wheat grain stored away, and given the fact that I don’t want to use the two-stone technique that my hunter/gatherer ancestors had used, I knew I would be needing a way of turning all that wheat into flour without an electric appliance.

Which brings us to today’s post. I thought I’d take a moment to share with you guys my review of two popular hand-powered wheat grinders that I purchased: the Back to Basics (also known as the Victorio) Grain Mill and the Wondermill Junior Grain Mill.

Back to Basics Grain Mill Review

Overall Construction and Setup

The quality of the Back to Basics grain mill is very good. The plastic hopper fits snugly into the metal housing, and the auger, handle, milling cone and shaft make for a solid working unit. Overall it is sturdy and well put together. Also, given it’s small size, it can easily fit into a kitchen drawer or be stored away without much trouble.

Setting up the mill is a simple process. It easily mounts to a counter top or table with the included clamp screw and I had no issues with it shifting or moving around as I turned the handle to grind up my wheat.

Function and Use

Although the quality is good and it has had no problems doing its job, after using it for some time the main beef I have with it is how long it takes to grind wheat. It’s small size — while good for storage — leads to slow (and low) milling output. For example, to grind a cup of wheat (which makes about 1 1/4 cups of flour) takes around 5 minutes (it took me 4:51 without rest and at a good pace)!

This is fine for an occasional loaf or two, but when you start making bread regularly it quickly becomes a hassle. Remember, an average loaf of bread is around 4-5 cups of flour. Multiply that by 5 minutes and you have more than 20 minutes of wheat grinding (probably longer since at some point you’ll need to take a break) — by hand, per loaf! Not something you want if your going to be living off of your long-term food storage.

Price

Since the Back to Basics Grain Mill was the first hand-powered grain mill that I purchased (around 2 years ago), the first thing that attracted me to it was the price; At around $60 it was cheaper than most other hand-powered grain mills out there and the reviews seemed fairly positive so I took a chance and bought it.

Wondermill Jr. Grain Mill Review

Overall Construction and Setup

If the Back to Basics mill is built strong then the Wondermill Jr. is built like a tank. The housing, hopper and body is a solid metal uni-body construction that has a thick powder coat finish that resists scratching and chipping.

The Wondermill Jr. also has a large hopper that holds slightly more than a quart. While that’s great and all, from my perspective hopper size is not that important in a hand-powered mill since you’re right there operating the thing and refilling as you’re going along is not an issue. This would be more important in an electric version where you’d leave it to let it do its thing.

The handle is around 10″ long giving you the leverage to easily and quickly grind most grains without too much exertion. It also comes with two stone heads for grinding hard dry seeds. If you purchase the Deluxe version it also comes with stainless-steel burr grinders which allow you to grind up oily nuts and seeds to make things like nut butter. Pretty cool I guess but not that practical for my purposes.

For the setup side of things, the Wondermill Jr. is more of a hassle than the Back to Basics mill. Since I didn’t buy the Wondermill Jr. Deluxe that comes with an adjustable mounting clamp (which would make it just as easy to set up as the Back to Basics mill) I will have to mount the base to a table with wood screws, making it a permanent fixture. As a temporary solution, you can see in my picture that I jury rigged it by using vice clamps. If you want more mobility, another option would be to mount it to a board which you could vice clamp to a number of platforms.

Function and Use

The Wondermill Jr. is a pleasure to use. It’s long handle and large stones make wheat grinding a cinch and it’s fast! Just to compare, I was able to make around 1 1/4 cup of flour in about a minute — 5 times faster than the Back to Basics mill.

Price

The cost of the Wondermill Jr. is around $165 dollars. The Deluxe version, which includes the adjustable clamp and stainless-steel heads, will cost you around $220. And by the way, you can always purchase the additional heads as well as the clamp at a future time if desired.

Back to Basics / Wondermill Jr. Summary and Comparison

Back to Basics Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Stainless steel cone-shaped burrs for grinding
• Small size as well as parts fit nicely together for ease of storage
• Good quality build
• Affordable Price
• Can be used when the power is out

Cons:

• On “Fine” setting, ground flour is still coarse.
• It’s slow as all get out…unless you’re looking for a good workout (1 1/4 cups of flour in 5 minutes)
• Although it appears to be built well, my gut feeling is that it is not designed to be a high-output grain mill and over time it will break down with much use (this is obviously not confirmed by testing, it’s just a general feeling)

Wondermill Jr. Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Built like a tank and built to last a life-time
• Mills flour extremely fine which makes for great bread as well as pastries
• With stainless steel heads, it can make nut butters if desired
• Powder coated for protection and easy clean up
• Mills flour pretty fast for a manual mill (about 1 1/4 cups in a minute)
• Can be used when the power is out

Cons

• Flour spews out the sides of the grinding stones requiring a fairly large receptacle (note: the latest models come with a flour guide that fixes this issue that can also be purchased for about $10 if your model is older).
• Cost is more expensive than the Back to Basics mill but worth it given the efficiency and quality.
• Non-deluxe model requires you to bolt the mill to a table since it doesn’t come with a clamp (this also can be purchased at a later time if desired)

Comparing the Two

Overall the Back to Basics mill will do the job, and if you’re only interested in a back up and price is an issue, then it’s a pretty good mill.

On the other hand, the Wondermill Jr. is leaps and bounds over the Back to Basics mill. But realize that the cost is substantially more (about $100+ more), so you’re paying for the upgrade. However, if I could go back in time, I would have not purchased the Back to Basics mill, although it’s nice to have the extra mill for redundancy or future trading reasons.

For me, one of the biggest reasons — besides the speed of output — is the quality and “fineness” of the flour. The Back to Basics mill makes a pretty coarse flour (even on its finest setting) whereas the Wonder Mill Jr. makes a very fine flour. The finer the flour, the better the bread (in my opinion) and you have the option of making things that require fine flour like pastries and pie crusts.

Here’s a photo showing the difference in consistency of the flour between the Wondermill Jr. (left) and the Back to Basics (right).

Since it’s kind of difficult to see the details of the paracord, I mixed it up a bit showing examples of the process with some thicker rope attached to a handle (to represent the belt buckle). Hopefully those images will help you see the process a little better.

How to Start a Slatt’s Rescue Belt on a Belt Buckle

	Step 1: The first thing I do to get the slatts-rescue-belt knot started on a belt buckle is to put a thick marker (or any marker-shaped object) above the buckle.
	Step 2: Then, I begin to wrap the paracord around both the buckle and the marker. I continue the looping process until I’ve reach six loops around both the marker and the buckle. Notice that there is a length of paracord trailing at the beginning of the loops. This will later be tied off and burned so that it doesn’t come undone. It helps — at least initially — to tie this off to something stable (not visible in the photo).
	Step 3: After the six loops have been created, pull the marker out until you are left with just the six open loops.
	Step 4: (So that you guys can see this better, I’ll switch views to the large rope and saw handle). With the six loops open and leaving a gab between the paracord and the buckle (again, in this case a handle), tunnel a bight (a loop) through all six loops until the first loop peeks out through the end.
	Step 5: From in-between each of the six loops, begin to pull the standing part of the rope (the source of rope that you fed into the six loops) out until it forms the second small loop.
	Step 6: Continue with the third loop (as shown in the photo) and onward until there are six loops.
	Step 7: As in step 4, tunnel a bight through all six loops that were created in the previous step.
	Step 8: Repeat steps 5 through 7 again.
	Step 9: Continue the steps above and watch your belt grow!

A Note on Finishing

When you’ve reached your desired length you will have trailing cords at both the beginning and the end. To get rid of these, what I like to do is weave them back into the belt and when there’s only a small piece extruding, I’ll melt this piece down with a lighter and flatten the melted tip into the belt.

Hope this helps! Be sure to comment with any questions you may have.

Do you have the resources to make the trek back home by foot? Or are you going to remain where you are, hoping for the government to come help you and possibly risking an attack by looters or worse? This is where you need your Get-Home Bag.

What is a Get Home Bag?

The purpose of a Get-Home Bag is to get you to your home or to some other shelter-in location safely and as quickly as possible.

A Get-Home Bag is different than a Bug-Out Bag in that it is designed to be carried with you at all times (or at least readily accessible) any time you’re away from home. While a typical Bug-Out Bag is stocked full of items to support you for at least 3 days, a Get-Home Bag should contain the minimal amount of items to support you in getting home within a 24-hour period.

What Type of Bag Should I Choose?

If you are caught in a situation where looting and other forms of lawlessness is breaking out (remember Katrina), the last thing you want to do is stand out from the crowd. It’s at those times that you want to be the Gray Man and fade into the background.

If your Get-Home Bag screams “tactical” or looks like you’re carrying a load of preps, you could be a target. For that reason, the main thing you want to ensure is that the bag is discreet.

If you’re female, you’ve already got it made. A purse is discreet but also the larger handbags are often seen being carried by women so not only do they blend in well but they can carry a bunch of stuff.

For you guys, a simple messenger bag works wonders. Especially in the cities, messenger bags are seen being carried by guys more and more so they blend in real well.

I carry 5.11′s PUSH Pack everywhere I go. It’s not overly tactical looking, it has a small footprint (it looks like a camera bag) with multiple compartments and has strategically placed MOLLE webbing so that it can carry a bunch of stuff for its size. Since half the time mine has a baby bottle in one of the outside water-bottle compartments, it looks like a glorified diaper bag — perfect for blending in.

If you can’t deal with the Man Purses, go for a standard back pack. Just be sure not to abuse its size with a crap load of gear. Keep it under 15 pounds. Anything over that and you’ll soon give up carrying it around on a day-to-day basis.

In most cases, try to stay away from the Alice Pack or MOLLE Pack type of look. If it’s overly military looking or you have a bunch of MOLLE webbing with all sorts of gear riding on it, you’ll attract undesired attention since it looks like you’ve got a bunch of supplies on you (and they’d be right).

Just keep it simple and go for what blends.

What Should Your Get-Home Bag Contain?

What you pack in your Get-Home Bag is obviously dictated by personal preference and what your needs are. However, if you’re unsure as how to organize it, perhaps I can share what I carry in my Get-Home Bag and hopefully it’ll give you some ideas on how best to organize yours.

As with all my preparations, they are organized into what I call the 5 Pillars of Survival: personal security, shelter, water, fire, and food.

Personal Security

The Personal Security portion of your Get-Home Bag has to do with those items which will keep you safe and keep you alive (in the case of injury).

If you have the option to carry a concealed firearm in your state and you are comfortable with that, by all means I would recommend that. Otherwise, if it’s not an option, you can carry a knife, pepper spray, stun gun or any other item that can protect you from animals of both the 4-legged and 2-legged-walking-upright variety.

Here’s what my GHB contains:

• Glock 22 with 15 rounds of hollow-point 40 caliber ammunition
• Benchmade RSK MK1 folding knife (this, I clip to my pants)
• stripped-down version of my trauma kit containing: Quick-Clot (combat gauze), Israeli bandage, pain-killers and nitrile gloves

Shelter

The Shelter portion of your Get-Home Bag includes those items that protect you from the elements. Since you will most likely not be carrying a tent around with you at all times of the day, your limited with regards to size and weight.

My GHB contains one of the simplest and lightest shelters available: a space blanket. These ingenious devices are waterproof, windproof, and can reflect up to 97% of the radiated heat your body throws off. The down side is, since they are so reflective they aren’t very discreet.

If you are worried about being observed, then you’ll want to be sure to cover up the space blanket some how. Or if you can afford the space in you GHB, the military has a field version of a space blanket (often called a “Casualty Blanket“). The casualty blanket is olive drab on the outside so it’s a bit more discreet. It also provides greater durability and warmth than a basic space blanket, but at the cost of greater bulk and weight.

Unfortunately my GHB can’t afford to give up that space, so for now — until something better comes along — I’m stuck with a standard space blanket. (Update: 9/15/11 – I was able to find an olive drab space blanket here)

Water

The Water portion of your Get-Home Bag includes water itself or those items that allow you to hold, filter, and purify water.

If you were forced into a 24-hour trek back home, dehydration will quickly become a very real issue. That’s why it’s so important that you have either water on you or some means of getting and purifying it. The benefit of living in New England is water is always a stone’s throw away, however it may not always be the cleanest. For this reason I carry the following:

• small hydration bladder
• iodine crystals (Polar Pure) for purifying
• bandanna (for sediment filtering and many other purposes)

If you live in a more arid environment, consider carrying at least a small water bottle along with you.

Fire

The Fire portion of your Get-Home Bag includes those items that you need to reliably start a fire.

I wouldn’t recommend packing some obscure “cool” fire-making implement like a battery and steel wool or a fire piston. Remember, this isn’t about impressing your friends but about survival. Instead, pack something you know you’ll be able to start a fire with (especially in wet conditions) like a lighter or waterproof matches.

Remember, redundancy is a good thing so pack in a firesteel and some Vaseline-coated cotton balls while your at it. These implements hardly take up any space so if you can carry more than one option, by all means go for it.

Here’s what’s in mine:

• lighter
• matches
• firesteel and Vaseline coated cotton balls

Food

The Food portion of your Get-Home Bag includes enough food to carry you through a 24-hour period.

Food is the last on the list of importance in a survival situation (in this case, getting home). You can actually go for quite a bit without food (~ 3 weeks) however, in a high-stress situation liking humping it though a disaster area, you’ll be burning up calories like crazy so having something on hand will give you that needed boost.

For the food part of your Get-Home Bag you’ll want to avoid any high-water-content containing foods like canned goods or fresh foods. Instead pack some simple, dense, calorie-rich foods that save space and take no extra preparation beyond tearing open a wrapper. Dehydrated foods and dense candy bars are more along the lines of what you want.

For my bag I carry four 400-calorie emergency bars. It’s not gourmet but it will carry me through until I get home.

Beyond the Essentials

The elements of your GHB that make up the each of the five Pillars of Survival above should be the minimum required to get you home, but if your bag still has some room in it, may I suggest a few more things which can greatly aid you in the getting-home process.

What I Currently Have in My Bag

Beyond the basic items listed above, here are the other items I am currently carrying:

• Maps: I carry foldable topo maps (homemade from MyTopo via Google Maps) of my area. This encompasses where I work, my home, and the areas in-between. This way, I can figure out how best to navigate around potentially unsafe or inaccessible areas.
• GPS: This would be my primary means of navigation if satellite coverage is available.
• A compass: Since I have experience and training in orienteering (navigating by compass), I carry a small compass that can provide a back-up in case my GPS were to go down (via EMP or otherwise):
• Survival Knife: I carry a Bark River Bravo 1.
• Paracord: Too many reasons to list here.
• Lock-Pick and Bump-Key set: You never know what types of buildings you may need to get into or through in your attempts to get out of an area or into a safer shelter-in location.
• Surefire E2D LED flashlight: Flashlights not only light the way in darkened areas but provide a tactical advantage.
• Leatherman Wave multi-tool: The name speaks for itself.

What I would like to carry if I had the room

Given my current configuration, here are some items that I would like to carry but do not quite fit:

• Breaching tool: A crowbar or modified Stanley Fatmax makes for an excellent breaching tool for getting into and out of areas in an urban environment.
• Alternate footwear: The chances are good that the stuff could hit the fan while I’m at work. A 45-mile hump in a pair of dockers is not my idea of fun. Unfortunately at the present time I can’t fit a set of running shoes in my GHB. I am currently looking into a pair of Vibram Five Fingers as a potential solution to this issue.

The Importance of Planning Ahead

The key to safely and successfully getting home is to plan ahead. Since your situation is probably different than mine, you need to figure out what potential hazards and obstacles you’d face given the area you’d likely be egressing from. This will dictate what types of things you’ll need to equip.

As with any form of survival training, be sure to practice with the tools you carry. Getting caught in an emergency situation is not the time to try out a new tool/technique for the first time. Be prepared ahead of time with both equipment and training.

]]> http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/get-home-bag.htm/feed 28 http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/mr-heater-big-buddy.htm http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/mr-heater-big-buddy.htm#comments Thu, 20 Jan 2011 04:50:58 +0000 Tactical Intelligence http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/?p=1546 For those looking for a great emergency heating source this winter, check out the Big Buddy Heater by Mr. Heater.

To give you some background, my house is currently heated by a pellet stove. Even though it’s very efficient and heats the house nicely, the obvious issue is that it doesn’t work if there’s a power outage. As a backup I do have a wood-burning stove that I could install if there were an extended grid-down situation, but I wanted to have something that could be set up quickly and easily for short-term emergencies as well as a temporary solution until I would need to install the wood stove.

There were four things I was looking for: 1. It had to be propane fueled. 2. It needed to be portable. 3. It had to put out at least 10,000 BTU and 4. It had to be safe enough to use indoors. What I found that met all these requirements was the Mr. Heater Big Buddy heater. Here’s my review:

Setting up the Big Buddy Heater

Out of the box, the Big Buddy sets up very easily. It’s a simple matter of hooking up two disposable 1lb propane bottles (the ones that are typically used for camping applications) on either side of the heater, turning on the pilot light and firing up the heater.

Fitting a 20lb propane tank

Along with the Big Buddy, I also purchased a propane-tank adapter and hose. It actually accommodates two hoses to be fitted to the heater, allowing you to hook up two 20lb (or larger) propane tanks. The obvious benefit is extended run time. For example, two 1lb bottles will give you around 3 to 12 hours of heat (depending on what setting it’s on), whereas the two 20lb propane tanks last for 50 to 220 hours (again depending on the setting).
If you’re considering purchasing one of these hoses be sure to read my recommendations below.

Testing the Heat Output

Since I haven’t had this heater for that long I haven’t been able do any extensive testing but my initial impression is that this heater seems to put out a good amount of heat. There are 3 heat settings — low, medium, and high — which give off 4000/9000/18000 BTUs respectively.

With last night being in the early 20s (Fahrenheit) I thought I’d test it out for a few hours; so I ran this in a medium sized room (around 200 square feet) and it kept the room at a comfortable 73 degrees.

Features

• Battery or A/C powered blower fan for versatility
• Low, medium, and high heat level control knob for steady temperatures
• Key-shaped rear mounting holes for wall mounting
• Built-in Piezo starter for easy starts
• Automatic shut off for accidental tip-over and fume safety

Likes and Dislikes

Here’s a list of the good and bad:

Positives

• Propane Fueled: Propane is one of the most stable fuels around. The great benefit of that is that it will store for many years without degradation.
• Portable: Since this heater is lightweight and can be carried quite easily, it makes for a great bug-out heater. Also, it simplifies moving it around in different areas of the house in an emergency situation.
• High Heat Output: With a maximum output of 18000 BTUs, the Big Buddy puts out a lot of heat for such a small unit. It easily fits my requirements for an emergency heater.
• Can Be Used Indoors: For the most part, this heater is safe to use indoors. Even though the heater comes with a low-oxygen sensor that will shut the unit off if the sensor is activated, I would still recommend using a Carbon Monoxide alarm in the area where you are running this heater.

Negatives

• No AC Adapter: I don’t understand why they don’t provide the power cord for the blower fan. Instead it’s another “accessory” that you have to shell out money for. What a waste.
• Can Clog if Not Careful: See my comments under the advice section

Some Words of Advice


The most common issue I’ve read about that people have found with this heater is that the regulators and control valves get clogged when running a 20lb tank. As one reviewer mentioned, this can be avoided when you ensure that you always shut the tank off first, then let the heater run until it burns off all the fuel in the lines.

If this procedure is not followed, the high PSI coming from the propane tank will get trapped in the accessory hose causing it to chemically react with the rubber and leech out an oily residue. This oil will clog both the regulator and control valve essentially ruining your heater.

In case you happen to forget to follow the above procedure, I highly recommend you purchase either the gas line filter that will catch the oily substance or a hose that comes with a regulator which lowers the PSI and prevents the chemical leeching (this is what I did).

]]> http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/mr-heater-big-buddy.htm/feed 26 http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/flashlight-self-defense.htm http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/flashlight-self-defense.htm#comments Thu, 06 Jan 2011 21:36:11 +0000 Tactical Intelligence http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/?p=1525 When it comes to choosing a weapon for self defense, a flashlight is typically not the first thing that comes to mind. However, when used correctly, it is an amazing tool for personal protection.

In this post I want to share some of the advantages of carrying a flashlight for personal protection as well as what to look out for when purchasing one. Given the many advantages, this should be a part of everyone’s EDC (every-day carry) gear.

Advantages of a Flashlight for Personal Protection

• There are No Restrictions: The great thing about flashlights is that, as of now, they are legal to carry in every state here in the U.S. as well as abroad (as far as I know). This is particularly advantageous for those living in nanny states where they’d arrest you if you were found carrying a chopstick.
  There is also no restriction on carrying a flashlight on airplanes or in other areas where handguns are commonly prohibited (such as the post office). Given the way things are going here in the U.S. however, I wouldn’t be surprised if flashlights get added to the list of restricted weapons.
• Flashlights are Discreet: Flashlights in and of themselves are very discreet. If a flashlight were to drop out of your pocket or bag in a public area, it wouldn’t raise an eyebrow. Contrast that with the reaction you’d get if your knife, or worse, handgun were to drop on the floor as your sitting in a subway car – yeah, not good. Unless you have one of those 12-inch flashlights with razor-sharp beveled tips that more resembles a medieval mace than a flashlight, then you should be good.
• Disorientation Factor: Especially at night, there is something about getting a wallop of lumens hitting you square in the eyes that can mess with your orientation. Have you ever been pulled over by a cop and have him shine his Maglite in your face? It’s disconcerting; and meant to be so. Many confrontations and potential attacks can be thwarted by simply shining a bright flashlight in your would-be-attackers eyes.
• Effective Against Animals: Animals, even more so than humans, become disoriented and confused when a bright light is shined in their eyes. When using really bright lights (100+ lumens) animals often react by running away.
• Illuminates Threat Areas: No other personal protection tool has the ability (except perhaps Night Optical Devices) to illuminate a low-light area. Since human predators like to use the advantage of the cover of darkness when lying in wait, a flashlight can remove that advantage and disrupt their attacks.
• Provides a Tactical Advantage: When coupled with other self-defense weapons, a flashlight provides a great tactical advantage. Not only does it illuminate threat areas as mentioned above, but it can blind an attacker which can disrupt aim and focus. From the attackers standpoint all they see is a wall of light and a dark silhouette behind it (that would be you). This not only masks your position but will mask any weapons you may be holding such as a knife, baton, or pistol, providing you with that tactical edge you need to come out alive.

What to Look for In a “Tactical” Flashlight

Here are my recommendations when choosing a flashlight for personal defense:

• Palm Sized: You want a light that is convenient to carry with you at all times. Your 500 lumen “mace” will do you no good if it’s under the seat of your car when you’re caught alone on a dark street.
• At Least 100 Lumens of Light Output: 100 lumens causes significant pupil constriction and a “blinding” aftershock due to momentary retina burn. It will even cause momentary blindness in daylight. This allows sufficient time for a surprise attack that will cause your attacker to think twice about continuing.
• LED Bulb Type: LED bulbs last significantly longer than incandescent and cause less battery drain.
• Rugged Housing: You want a light that is sturdy enough to stay lit even if dropped, kicked around, manhandled, or used to deliver a blow. Typically look for those made from mil-spec hard anodized (Type III) aluminum which will be very strong and very light.
• Waterproof: You want to buy a flashlight that is sealed on both ends with rubber o-ring gaskets. This will keep out water even when submerged.
• Established Brand: Flashlights, like any other tool, can break down with time. Be sure to buy one that is from an established brand and stay away from the cheap knock-offs. That way when you need replacement parts, they’re only a call away. In fact why not buy some replacement bulbs, o-rings, and batteries ahead of time. This way, you’ll have them when you need them.

Recommended Tactical Flashlights

Here are a few tactical flashlights that I highly recommend:

• SureFire E2D LED Defender
  
• Fenix TK12 R5 LED
  
• EagleTac T20C2 MarkII
  
• Olight M20S R5 Tactical Flashlight
  
• JETBeam RRT-2 Raptor
  

A Demonstration

For those not familiar with the newer LED “mini” flashlights, here’s a few pictures demonstrating the size and light-output difference between a standard 4 D-Cell MagLite and a SureFire E2D LED Defender (both with batteries at full capacity):

Size Comparison






Brightness Comparison

This was around 11pm from about 50 feet from my barn. Even though the MagLite is a bright flashlight, it doesn’t hold a candle (pun intended) to the SureFire:




4 D-Cell MagLite	SureFire E2D LED Defender

Additional Resources

• CandlePower Forums: For those interested in learning more than they ever wanted to know about flashlights, check out this forum. It’s filled with a slew of highly-knowledgeable torch junkies.
• SureFire True Stories: Here are some true first-person accounts of military personnel, LEOs and civilians who had to use their flashlights to defend themselves against attackers of both the two-legged and four-legged variety.
]]> http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/flashlight-self-defense.htm/feed 13 http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/military-sleep-system.htm http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/military-sleep-system.htm#comments Wed, 01 Sep 2010 13:57:14 +0000 Tactical Intelligence http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/?p=1373
Just recently I had purchased two of the newer issue military sleep systems (one in the older woodland camo issue and the other in the newer ACU/digital camo) to upgrade some of my existing bug-out gear. I wanted to take some time in this post to do an in-depth review.



Overall Production Quality

First off, I love the fact that these sleeping bags are American made (made by Tennier industries). So much of the outdoor gear you find at many of the largest outdoor vendors is China made — which as a rule I try not to patronize if possible (not always easy I know).

What you’ll notice off the bat is the high production quality of this sleep system. The zippers are large and durable, do not snag and are designed for quick exits in an emergency. The material, made of resistant rip-stop nylon, is light-weight but does not feel “cheap”. Whether you’re looking at the straps, buttons, or fabric, you can tell that great care was taken in choosing the right kind of materials to support our soldiers in harms way.

Even with many of the higher-end vendors (TNF, Mountain Hardware, REI etc) most of the China-gear they sell — although lightweight (this seems to be the only important factor nowadays for outdoor enthusiasts) — much of it will not hold up to the rigors that soldiers or someone bugging out will put them through on a day-to-day basis.

The Components

The modular sleep system is made up of 4 components.

The outermost layer consists of a 100% waterproof Goretex bivy sack. For those not familiar with a bivy sack, it’s essentially an outer shell that acts as the most basic of shelters — protecting the user from exposure to the elements such as rain, wind, and snow. The next two layers consist of the Patrol Sleeping Bag (rated to 30 F) and the Intermediate Cold Weather Sleeping Bag (rated to -10 F).

Each layer is designed to be used independently of one another or combined as needed depending on the climate. For example, when you combine all three of these layers together, you have a sleep system rated for -30 F.

The final component is a compression stuff sack, which allows you to compress all the layers down to around a cubic foot as seen below:


The obvious advantage to this set up is the wide-range of temperatures and climates that you can use this system in. And since it includes a bivy sack, you can leave your tent at home — saving you extra weight when bugging out. It’s your one-stop shop to keeping warm and dry.

Assembling the Sleep System

Putting the sleep system together is a fairly simple task. If you’re sleeping in warmer climates (> 30 F) then just combine the bivy sac with the patrol bag. For temperatures ranging in -10 F to 30 F just the Intermediate Cold Weather bag in combination with the bivy would be used. And finally if you’re looking to sleep out in -30 F to -10 F then you’ll need to combine all the bags together.

To assemble, each bag is fitted with a number of snaps that allow them to be used with or independent of one another. This “mating of the bags” so to speak ensures that, when combined, they act as one unit. The advantage of this is that you won’t get tangled in multiple layers of bags through the night — very problematic if you’re needing to egress the bag in a hurry.

Testing and Ratings

One thing you’ll want to note is that all military gear is tested. Therefore the ratings and specifications are always candid and accurate. Unlike most other sleeping bags on the market that provide wildly optimistic temperature ratings, if the Army labs in Natick, Massachusetts say a product does something, you know it does.

Even with that, if you’ve been a regular reader to this blog you know important it is for me to test things personally. Since we are still in Summer here in New England I haven’t been able to give this military sleep system a fair shake. This I’ll do in the upcoming new year where I’ll put it through the rigors of a New England winter.

The Negatives

This wouldn’t be a decent review without pointing out what’s not so hot with these sleep systems. The biggest one for me is the weight. Pushing 11+ pounds these sleep systems are quite heavy compared to many of the ultralight bags you can find. Given that these bags are super durable, durability comes at the price of weight so I’m ok with that. Also, since I’d use these as my shelter (no tent required) their would be weight saved overall.

The second biggest negative for me is the size. When compressed, these systems are a bulky cubic foot. Still too big for most backpacks. However, they can easily attach to the outside or bottom of your backpack without issue.

The last negative (only a minor one for me) is the camo patterns on the bivys. I’m not a big fan of Woodland camo or ACU (they both stick out too much in my opinion) and much prefer Woodland MARPAT (Marine Pattern) or Multi-cam in my area. The reason this is not a huge issue is that since I’m not wearing these bags while mobile it’s an easy process to blend these systems into the surrounding landscape without much issue if discreetness was crucial.

Pricing and Where to Buy

Just a cursory look online and you’ll notice a wide range of prices these bags are being sold for. On the high side you’ll see them going for $600 (for a brand-new ACU issue system) and on the low side for around $120.

The key is not to buy them brand-new (the $600 ones). Instead, you’ll want to get the gently-used surplus ones which can be found at your local army/navy surplus store or on eBay. In actuality even the “beat-up” ones I’ve seen look pretty good. These bags hold up well. I purchased the ACU camo system for $160 (brand-new) on eBay and the woodland camo system for $125 (slightly used but essentially mint condition) at the local army/navy surplus store.

If money is not an option there are other sleep systems that are better such as the Wiggy’s FTRSS sleep system (also American made) or the Snugpak complete sleep systems — both are much lighter, very durable and excellent quality.

But for the price that the surplus military sleep systems go for you get a fantastic, quality-made sleep system at a fraction of the cost of other bags on the market — many of which wouldn’t withstand the abuse that these bags can go through.

How to Identify an Authentic Military Sleep System

On a final note, it’s important for you to be aware of the many copycats and supposed “military spec” sleep systems on the market. You’ll find many sleep systems being peddled on eBay and elsewhere for around $50 – $80 claiming to be “GI Sleep Systems” or “Military Sleep Systems” but in reality are nothing but cheap knock-offs.

What you’ll want to look for is the NSN — the National Stock Number (or NATO Stock Number as our allies call it). This will properly identify the bags. Each bag, compression sack, and bivy will contain these numbers sewn on them. Here’s an example:



Here are the NSN’s and details you’ll want to look out for:

Woodland Camo Issue (NSN #8465-01-445-6274)


This was the original updated sleep system designed and made by Tennier Industries. It’s a 4-part sleep system consisting of a black compression stuff sack, a black Intermediate Cold Weather Sleeping Bag, a green Patrol Bag, and a woodland-camo Bivy Sack.



ACU Pattern Issue (NSN #8465-01-547-2757)


This is the latest release in the updated sleep system designed and made by Tennier Industries. It’s a 5-part sleep system consisting of two foliage-colored compression stuff sacks (one large and one small), an urban-grey colored Intermediate Cold Weather Sleeping Bag, a foliage-colored Patrol Bag, and an ACU pattern camo Bivy Sack.



]]> http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/military-sleep-system.htm/feed 36 http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/night-vision-for-the-rest-of-us.htm http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/night-vision-for-the-rest-of-us.htm#comments Thu, 12 Aug 2010 08:48:46 +0000 Tactical Intelligence http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/?p=1331 Night-vision devices have come quite a long way since the Vietnam 1st-Generation optics. And as technology has improved and production costs have come down, demand continues to grow in the civilian market.

One of the premier night-vision technologies that the military and law enforcement use on regular basis is forward-looking infrared. This technology allows the viewer to see differences in thermal radiation that objects give off, clearly contrasting an individual or animal from its background. Since most night-vision devices (Gen I – Gen III) require some amount of ambient light to work (and will not work in the day), flir devices have a clear advantage (no pun intended  ).



Despite the obvious benefits for preparedness-minded people such as yourselves, this technology has been too expensive to make it worth while.  However times are changing. FLIR, the company which has pioneered this technology, is trying to increase its position in the civilian market. And along with this they will soon be releasing a FLIR monocular/camera called the “Scout”.

Here’s a video showing off some real time images/video produced by the Scout:

Aside from the TEOTWAWKI applications (personal security, poach hunting etc) there are quite a number of other applications (taken from the FLIR website);

• See people: Keep track of the rest of your hiking or camping party – in the darkest nights, and even when they’re obscured by light foliage.
• See animals: everything gives off heat, so animals can’t use their natural camouflage to hide from Scout. Discover those hard-to-spot animals that you’ve always wanted to see, day and night.
• Track game: – sportsmen can use Scout to track wounded animals by following their heat signatures directly, or by detecting signs they leave behind like blood trails and foot prints.
• Stay safe: – Scout’s thermal night vision technology lets you see clearly through smoke, dust, and light fog so you can stay safe in the outdoors when conditions deteriorate.
• Lightweight and rugged – Scout is rugged, fully submersible, and built to last. Weighing less than a pound-and-a-half, it won’t drag you down.
• Easy to use – direct, push-button access to all camera controls make Scout easy to use, even with gloves on
• See more, and see farther, than with other night-vision technologies because Scout sees clearly without any light whatsoever, it can see farther at night than other imaging technologies that need ambient light to work, and can see heat sources that these other cameras could never find.
• There are dozens of at-home uses for Scout as well including home security, location of heat leaks, and detection of water damage. Its ¼ x 20 tripod mounting hole and video output make it easy to mount on an ATV, pickup, or SUV.

Another interesting video explaining some of the uses for this product with some more detail in law-enforcement applications:

Conclusion

Without officially testing this, I can in no way provide a strong argument either way. But this looks like a great piece of equipment and the capabilities look amazing!

So how much for this bad-boy? For the Scout the company is quoting around $3000. Not cheap, but it beats the prices a few years back of around $10,000+. Still, I’d like to give it a bit more time to let the idea percolate inside my head.

]]> http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/night-vision-for-the-rest-of-us.htm/feed 5 http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/how-to-set-up-craigslist-notifications.htm http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/how-to-set-up-craigslist-notifications.htm#comments Wed, 09 Jun 2010 05:05:42 +0000 Tactical Intelligence http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/?p=1265 For many of you new to the preparedness/survivalist/prepper scene, you may be quite daunted with the sheer amount of “stuff” you need to buy in order to feel fully prepared. Everything from communication gear, to hunting equipment, to camping gear can put you back several thousands of dollars.

Although there are always cheaper options with regards to gear, unfortunately as the saying goes, “you get what you pay for” — and you don’t want to have to depend on poorly-made cheap gear for the welfare and safety of your loved ones.

Buying Top Quality Gear for Dirt Cheap Prices

So how can you still get quality, dependable gear without breaking the bank? Well, there is a place where you can buy barely used, and in some cases brand spanking new, quality gear for often more than half off the price you would pay in a store. I’m sure you’ve all heard of it by now: Craigslist.

I know what you’re thinking, “Come on Erich, when I check I rarely find anything good, and when I do it’s usually been already taken.” Well for most people that’s true. But not for me. I’ve been able to purchase top quality sleeping bags, camping hammocks (Hennessy Hammocks), camping stoves, compound bows, radios, a 4-season tent and other gear for more than half off the list price. What’s my secret? It’s setting up Craigslist notifications.

How to Set Up Craigslist Notifications

The benefit of setting up notifications with Craigslist listings is that you can have them sent to your email, IM, or phone. This way you get an instant alert when a specific item you’re looking for becomes available, giving you a much greater chance of getting that long sought after piece of gear.

My favorite tool for getting instant notifications to my phone via sms (text message), my email, and instant messenger is a free utility called Notify.me. It’s very simple to use and best of all it costs nothing. Here’s a demo on how it can be used (substitute his search for Toyota Prius with your needed survival gear  ):

There are many other similar tools (most aren’t free) available online that provide similar services. However, this is the best tool I’ve found available. Happy hunting! And be sure to let me know if you’ve made out on some killer deals as a result of this.

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